Tables draped in crisp white linen fill this high-ceilinged bistro, which looks as if it's been transported from the streets of Paris directly to the Central West End. Large portions of French classics employ cream and butter unsparingly – dieters beware. Lump crab with avocado, tomato, and basil salad is a filling starter; try to save room for plats principaux, including roast free-range chicken with truffle sauce, braised sauerkraut with smoked pork chop and sausage, and sauteed veal in white wine and mushrooms. Three entrees can be sampled for $38 – a steal.